The town where the Battle of Britain was actually flown
Fighter Command was commanded from Bentley Priory in Stanmore. The fighting itself — every squadron, every scramble, every day of the summer of 1940 over London — was directed from a hole in the ground in Uxbridge.
We drive past it most weeks. The streets built on the old RAF station look like any other recent development in west London: brick, crescents, a park named after Dowding, a primary school. Sixty feet under one corner of it is the most consequential room this borough has ever contained, and you cannot see a thing from the road.
The digging of it
RAF Uxbridge opened in 1917 and did not close until 31 March 2010 — ninety-three years of continuous service. In the spring before the war, between February and August 1939, Sir Robert McAlpine built an underground operations room on the station. It sits about sixty feet, some eighteen metres, below the surface, and it was built to survive a direct hit from a 500-pound bomb.
What it did
Fighter Command was divided into groups, and No. 11 Group had London and the whole of the south-east. In the summer of 1940 that meant No. 11 Group had the war. Under Air Vice-Marshal Keith Park, the plotters in the Uxbridge operations room took the radar and Observer Corps reports as they came in, moved the blocks across the table, and told the sector stations ringing London where to be and when. Bentley Priory set the strategy. Uxbridge fought the thing hour by hour.
Two visits
Churchill came on 16 August 1940 and watched a day of it. Leaving, in the car with General Ismay, he said the sentence: never in the field of human conflict was so much owed by so many to so few. He said it at Uxbridge, to one man, walking to a car — four days before he said it in the House of Commons on 20 August. The most quoted line of the war was first spoken on a driveway in this borough.
He came back on 15 September 1940, the day now marked as Battle of Britain Day. Watching the board fill up with raids and the reserve markers empty, he asked Park how many reserves there were. Park’s answer was three words.
“There are none.”
What is there now, and what it means for a group
The bunker outlived the station. The London Borough of Hillingdon runs it today as the Battle of Britain Bunker, with a purpose-built visitor centre above ground and the operations room preserved below. The published details are in the panel — taken off the venue’s own site on 29 August 2026, and worth reading, because several of the third-party listings sites were still carrying older prices on the same day. We quote the venue, never the aggregator.
Three things decide whether a group visit works:
- You cannot simply walk down. “The only way to visit the 1940s Bunker is to join one of our scheduled tours.” The tour goes down 76 steps — the site’s accessibility page says 77 — and there is no lift and no ramp. A pre-recorded virtual tour is shown in the wheelchair-accessible auditorium at no extra cost, which is a genuinely decent answer to a hard building.
- The website does not take coach parties. “Booking for groups of 10 or less can be done via our website. For bigger groups please contact us.” Fifty people is a phone call, not a checkout.
- There is no coach park, deliberately. When the visitor centre went before Hillingdon’s own planning committee in January 2015, application 585/APP/2014/3910, the committee recorded that dedicated coach parking was not necessary because “coaches would arrive by prior appointment only and also that the access road to the site is not a through road”.
That last sentence is, in effect, the booking process for this venue written down by a planning committee eleven years ago. Ring, agree a time, and the coach is expected. Arrive unannounced with a full-size vehicle and you are twelve metres of coach on a residential dead end — precisely the thing the planners were assured would never happen.
If you are taking a group to the Bunker, say so when you enquire and we will build the phone call into the quote. Getting into that room is a matter of arrangement rather than arrival, and it is worth the arranging.